How to make Gaia’s Blessing

Because it received such a warm reception, I’ve decided to bring Gaia’s Blessing back for the Pangaia Festival on June 9th and 10th.

Now, I know that not everyone can make it to the fairs, and I’m betting some of you would like to make your own Soap Sorcery, so I’ve decided to post my recipe for Gaia’s Blessing 😀

What you will need for this recipe:

36 oz White Melt and Pour Base
I use Stephenson’s, but whichever brand you are most comfortable with
2 Tbsp each or Lavender Buds, Sassafras, Dried Elderberries, and Dried Lemon Zest
1 Tbsp Chrome Oxide Pigment (Or another color if you prefer)
1 Tbsp Isopropyl Alcohol
1/2 oz Light Fragrance Oil
I use my cotton blossom blend, but and light aroma will work
1 Nine Bar Mold
I use the “Tree of Life” mold from Bulk Apothecary, but again, do what you think looks nice
1 Four cup or larger Pyrex or otherwise microwave safe measuring cup.
1 Whisk or Spatula
1 Infrared Thermometer
Not entirely necessary, but it does make the process much easier.

The first thing you are going to want to do is dice up your Melt and Pour base into the microwave safe measuring cup, or double boiler if you prefer that method.  The pieces don’t need to be super small, just small enough to melt consistently.

Assuming that you are using the measuring cup in a microwave, heat it in 30-45 second bursts.  Stir as much as you can in between those bursts.  You don’t want to heat the soap for too long at a time, because it can scorch.  Scorched Melt and Pour soap has a very unpleasant aroma, get’s rubbery, and won’t produce a good lather.  The number of bursts will vary from microwave to microwave, but it takes about 10 bursts on mine to get everything to where it is mostly liquid with just a few chunks that get stirred around to absorb the residual heat.

Now comes the waiting the game.  You want to stir your base frequently until it reaches 160 degrees Fahrenheit (Apx 71 degrees Celsius).   I learned the hard way that you don’t want to add your herbs when it is hotter, or the soap will turn brown.  If you don’t have an infrared thermometer, this step is kinda tricky.  Basically, all the soap should be liquid, still thin, but should form a skin if you let it sit a few seconds.

While you are waiting, mix together your pigment with you alcohol.  This will make it easier to blend into your soap base without getting lots of clumps of undispersed color.

When you reach the target temperature, stir in your color, fragrance, and herbs.

Now we go back to stirring until the mixture has reached 140 degrees Fahrenheit (60 degrees Celsius).  If you aren’t using an infrared thermometer, the mixture should be just starting to get thick, but not so thick that you can’t pour it freely from the measuring cup.  If you pour too early, all your herbs will rise to the top of the mold.  Pour too late, and the mixture won’t sink into the details.  Some of the herbs are still going to settle on the top, but you should get a good distribution throughout the soap.

Now we just pour the mixture into our mold.  I have found that a quick sweep just barely covering the bottom of the mold, waiting about 30 seconds, then gently filling in on top of that helps keep most of the herbs from rising.

Now we just wait 2-3 hours, gently unmold the slab, and cut it into bars.  Even though the soap is ready to use, I have found that letting it cure overnight ensures a good, hard, long lasting bar of soap.

Your friends and family are going to love the subtle fragrance of all the herbs steeped into this soap.  Why, you might end up having to make more than one batch from all the requests you get.  BTW….That’s how I ended up getting into the soap business 😉

I hope you enjoy this recipe.  I’m going to try and post more of my recipes in the months ahead.  And as always, have a magical day!

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